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C5 (vuosimallit 1997-2004) Corvette C5 & Z06

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  #21  
Old 07.10.2008, 23:58
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Corveten tunkkaus ylös:
http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lift.php


Polttoainesuuttimien vaihto:
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07...ors/index.html

Korjausohjeita moneen vaivaan:
http://www.smokinvette.com/corvettef...splay.php?f=61

Throttle Bodyn porttaus kotikontein:
http://www.banfacebook.com/post/DIY-...ttle-Body.aspx

Magna Charger testaus:
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...t/blownc5.html
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  #22  
Old 19.10.2008, 20:54
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Testejä, esittelyjä ja asennusohjeita VIDEONA. (ei pelkästään C5 vaan myös muut mallit)

http://www.ecklers.com/video.asp?Pag...=1&find%5Fspec=
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  #23  
Old 19.10.2008, 21:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevy.8

Tästä sen verran että tarttee LS1 koneeseen ainakin heitellä 1/2 " spacerit venakoppien alle. Nokka esim Lingenfelter GT7 (nosto .554/.546)
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  #24  
Old 20.10.2008, 00:28
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Hyvä huomio.
Tuntuu että melkein minkä vaan aftermarket keinut laittaa niin ei mahdu vakio koppien alle.Luvataan mitä vaan....vähemmällä pääsee spacereilla kuin koneistamalla venakoppia.
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  #25  
Old 20.10.2008, 10:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevy.8
Hyvä huomio.
Tuntuu että melkein minkä vaan aftermarket keinut laittaa niin ei mahdu vakio koppien alle.Luvataan mitä vaan....vähemmällä pääsee spacereilla kuin koneistamalla venakoppia.

Yx yella terran mailli taitaa mennä ilman spacereita, en nyt vaan muista et mikä malli se oli. Pääsääntöisesti kyllä vaatii noi spacerit.
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  #26  
Old 20.07.2009, 23:01
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Vikakoodit

Corvette 1997-2000 Codes
To list your codes, turn the ignition key to the ON position, but don't start the engine. Clear any present DIC messages (like Door Ajar, or Service Steering Column) by pressing the RESET button. Then hold the OPTIONS button down, while pressing the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC.
The computer will automatically display all the codes your car is or has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. You can watch it display codes for every module in your car. If you want to write them down, go ahead. Any code that ends in H is a history code - something that has occured in the past but is fine now. The computer is very sensative and would throw a code if you turned the radio off while tuning it.
Once the computer has finished going through all of it's automatic codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES". If it shows a number of codes, press and hold RESET until it displays "NO CODES". This is how you reset your codes.
10-PCM - Powertrain Control Module
P0101 Mass Air Flow (MAF) System Performance
P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency
P0107 Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0108 Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0112 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0117 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Sensor Low Voltage
P0118 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Sensor High Voltage
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Excessive Time to Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0131 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0132 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0133 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0134 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0135 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0137 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0138 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0140 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0141 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0151 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0152 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0153 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0154 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0155 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0157 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0158 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0160 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0161 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
P0172 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1
P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2
P0175 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 2
P0230 Fuel Pump Control Circuit
P0300 Engine Misfire Detected
P0325 Knock Sensor (KS) System
P0327 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Front
P0332 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Rear
P0335 CKP Sensor Circuit
P0336 CKP Sensor Circuit Performance
P0341 CMP Circuit Performance
P0342 CMP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0343 CMP Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0351 Ignition Control #1 Circuit
P0352 Ignition Control #2 Circuit
P0353 Ignition Control #3 Circuit
P0354 Ignition Control #4 Circuit
P0355 Ignition Control #5 Circuit
P0356 Ignition Control #6 Circuit
P0357 Ignition Control #7 Circuit
P0358 Ignition Control #8 Circuit
P0410 AIR System
P0412 AIR Solenoid Relay Control Circuit
P0418 AIR Pump Relay Control Circuit
P0420 TWC System Low Efficiency Bank 1
P0430 TWC System Low Efficiency Bank 2
P0441 EVAP System No Flow During Purge
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit Performance
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit Low Voltage
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage
P0480 FC Relay 1 Control Circuit
P0481 FC Relay 2 and 3 Control Circuit
P0500 VSS Circuit (M/T)
P0506 Idle Speed Low
P0507 Idle Speed High
P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
P0562 System Voltage Low
P0563 System Voltage High
P0567 Cruise Resume Circuit
P0568 Cruise Set Circuit
P0571 Cruise Brake Switch Circuit (M/T)
P0601 PCM Memory
P0602 PCM Not Programmed
P0604 PCM RAM Performance
P0606 PCM Internal Communication Interrupted
P0608 VSS Output Circuit
P0650 MIL Control Circuit
P0654 Engine Speed Output Circuit
P0704 Clutch Switch Circuit (M/T)
P0705 Transmission Range Switch Circuit (A/T)
P0706 Transmission Range Switch Performance (A/T)
P0801 Reverse Inhibit Solenoid Control Circuit (M/T)
P0803 1-4 Upshift Solenoid Control Circuit (M/T)
P0804 1-4 Upshift Lamp Control Circuit (M/T)
P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage
P1112 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1114 ECT Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
P1115 ECT Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage
P1120 TP Sensor 1 Circuit
P1125 APP System
P1133 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1
P1134 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Transition Time Ratio Bank 1 Sensor 1
P1153 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1154 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Transition Time Ratio Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1220 TP Sensor 2 Circuit
P1221 TP Sensors 1, 2 Performance
P1258 Engine Coolant Over Temperature-Fuel Disabled
P1275 APP Sensor 1 Circuit
P1276 APP Sensor 1 Circuit Performance
P1280 APP Sensor 2 Circuit
P1281 APP Sensor 2 Circuit Performance
P1285 APP Sensor 3 Circuit
P1286 APP Sensor 3 Circuit Performance
P1380 EB (T) CM DTC Detected- Rough Road Data Unusable
P1381 Misfire Detected - No EB (T) CM/PCM Serial Data
P1415 AIR System Bank 1
P1416 AIR System Bank 2
P1431 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit Performance
P1432 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Low Voltage
P1433 Fuel Level Sensor 2 High Voltage
P1441 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge
P1514 TAC System MAF Performance
P1515 Command vs Actual Throttle Position Performance (PCM Module)
P1516 Command vs Actual Throttle Position Performance (TAC Module)
P1517 TAC Module Processor
P1518 PCM to TAC Module Serial Data Circuit
P1539 A/C Clutch Status Circuit High Voltage
P1545 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P1546 A/C Clutch Status Circuit Low Voltage
P1571 ASR Desired Torque
P1574 Stop Lamp Control Circuit
P1575 Extended Travel Brake Switch Circuit High Voltage
P1626 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Enable Circuit
P1630 Theft Deterrent System PCM In Learn Mode
P1631 Theft Deterrent System Password Incorrect
P1635 5 Volt Reference #1 Circuit
P1639 5 Volt Reference #2 Circuit
P1644 Delivered Torque Output Circuit
P1652 Powertrain Induced Chassis Pitch Output Circuit

28-TCS - Traction Control System
C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
C1217 BPMV Pump Motor Relay Contact CKT Open
C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
C1222 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
C1223 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
C1224 RR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1226 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1227 LR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1228 RR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
C1234 LR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
C1235 RR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
C1236 Low System Supply Voltage
C1237 High System Supply Voltage
C1241 Magna Steer Circuit Malfunction
C1242 BPMV Pump Motor Ground Circuit Open
C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled
C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction
CEBCM Internal Malfunction
C1261 LF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1262 LF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1263 RF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1264 RF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1265 LR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1266 LR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1267 RR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1268 RR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
C1273 RF TCS Master Cyl Isolation Valve Malfunction
C1274 RF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction
C1276 Delivered Torque Signal CKT Malfunction
C1277 Requested Torque Signal CKT Malfunction
C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM
C1281 Steering Sensor Uncorrelated Malfunction
C1286 Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction
C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
C1291 Open Brake Lamp Sw Contacts During Deccel
C1293 DTC C1291/C1292 Set Curnt/Prev Ign Cylce
C1294 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Always Active
C1295 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1255 Generic Loss Communications
U1300 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to Ground
U1301 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to Battery

to be continued...
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  #27  
Old 20.07.2009, 23:02
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38-RTD - Real Time Damping
C1650 ESC Module Malfunction
C1658 EEPROM Calibration Malfunction
C1710 LF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage)
C1711 LF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND)
C1712 LF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit)
C1715 RF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage)
C1716 RF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND)
C1717 RF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit)
C1720 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage)
C1721 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND)
C1722 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit)
C1725 RR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage)
C1726 RR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND)
C1727 RR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit)
C1743 Loss of Vehicle Speed Signal
C1760 LF Position Sensor (Out of Range)
C1761 RF Position Sensor (Out of Range)
C1762 LR Position Sensor (Out of Range)
C1763 RR Position Sensor (Out of Range)
C1768 Position Sensor Supply Malfunction (Overcurrent)
C1780 Loss of Steering Position Signal
C1786 RTD Control Relay Malfunction
C1787 RTD Control Relay Circuit (Open or Short to GND)
C1788 RTD Control Relay Circuit (Short to Voltage)
C1790 Ride Control Switch (Out of Range)
C1791 Ride Control Switch (Contact Malfunction)

40-BCM -Body Control Module
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0433 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0502 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0507 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0605 BCM Internal Memory Function
B0844 BCM Temporarily Inhibit ABS
B2403 Front Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2408 Rear Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2482 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2483 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2527 Horn Relay Circuit
B2528 Horn Relay Circuit
B2573 Hatch Release Switch Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2578 RF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2583 LF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2588 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2583 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2597 Traction Control System Switch Circuit
B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2735 PASS-Key Programming Mode Active
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

60-IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster
B0516 Speedometer Signal Circuit Malfunction
B0521 Tachometer Signal Circuit Malfunction
B1512 DIC Switch 1 Signal Short to GND "FUEL"
B1517 DIC Switch 2 Signal Short to GND "GAGES"
B1522 DIC Switch 3 Signal Short to GND "TRIP"
B1527 DIC Switch 4 Signal Short to GND "OPTIONS"
B1532 DIC Switch 5 Signal Short to GND "E/M"
B1537 DIC Switch 6 Signal Short to GND "RESET"
B1542 Oil Temperature Circuit Short to GND
B1543 Oil Temperature Circuit Open
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS
U1056 Loss of Communications with RTD
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1128 Loss of Communications with Radio
U1153 Loss of Communications with HVAC
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
U1161 Loss of Communications with RDCM
U1166 Loss of Communications with SCM
U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

80-Radio - Radio Not Found

99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning
B0332 Outside Air Temp Sensor Short to GND
B0333 Outside Air Temp Sensor Open
B0337 Inside Air Temp Sensor Short to GND
B0338 Inside Air Temp Sensor Open
B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open
B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
B0446 Right Actuator Out of Range
B1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module
B2202 Left Window Up Switch Fault
B2204 Left Window Down Switch Fault
B2206 Right Window Up Switch Fault
B2208 Right Window Down Switch Fault
B2222 LT Mirror Select Switch Fault
B2224 RT Mirror Select Switch Fault
B2226 Mirror Right Switch Fault
B2228 Mirror Left Switch Fault
B2232 Mirror Up Switch Fault
B2234 Mirror Down Switch Fault
B2236 Left Door Lock Switch Fault
B2238 Left Door UnLock Switch Fault
B2242 Memory 1 Switch Fault
B2244 Memory 2 Switch Fault
B2252 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2262 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
B2272 Left Mirror Motor Fault
B2274 Window Motor Fault
B2276 Door Lock Motor/Mirror Heater Fit
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
B2286 +5V Reference Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module
B2203 Right Window Up Switch Fault
B2205 Right Window Down Switch Fault
B2237 Right Door Lock Switch Fault
B2239 Right Door Un-Lock Switch Fault
B2253 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2263 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
B2265 Horizontal Position Sensor Fault
B2273 Right Mirror Motor Fault
B2275 Window Motor Fault
B2277 Door Lock Motor/Mirror Heater Fit
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
B2287 +5V Reference Fault
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

A6-SCM - Seat Control Module
B0846 Battery 2 Out of Range
B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range
B2002 Fore/Aft Seat Motor Open or Short to GND
B2007 Front Vertical Seat Motor Open or Shorted
B2012 Rear Vertical Seat Motor Open or Shorted
B2172 Seat Front Up Switch Shorted to GND
B2177 Seat Front Down Switch Shorted to GND
B2182 Seat Rear Up Switch Shorted to GND
B2187 Seat Rear Down Switch Shorted to GND
B2192 Seat Forward Switch Shorted to GND
B2197 Seat Reverse Switch Shorted to GND
B2605 Seat Front Vertical Position Sensor Failure
B2606 Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure
B2607 Seat Horizontal Position Sensor Failure

B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation
B0605 Receiver Internal Memory Malfunction
B2805 No Transmitters Programmed
C2100 Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2105 Right Front TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2110 Right Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2115 Left Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction
C2120 TPM System Malfunction (No Sensors Received)
C2121 TPM System Programming Malfunction (No Sensors Programmed)
U1000 Loss of Communication Undetermined
U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM
U1064 Loss of Communication with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communication with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
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  #28  
Old 28.11.2009, 14:38
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Kaikki mahdollinen C5:sta (corvetteforum) 1/3

This thread is an evolution of a couple old threads, and topics that
come up over and over and over again. I’ve compiled most everything I
know into this one thread. I’m always expanding and correcting this
information; if anything is incorrect or missing, please post and
point them out or PM me. I know I’m extremely fallible, yet humble,
so feel free to shred this post to shreds, but do it constructively.
As many of you have surely noticed, I’ve posted up lots of garbage
in the past, but I’ve learned and will continue to learn. Because of
the constant updates, posts down the road may get confusing, but
just remember the information at the top is my latest and greatest.
Enjoy!

Common Problems

Leaking Battery
Many C5's came with AC Delco Freedom batteries that had a tendency
to have it's case crack open near the battery posts. The leaking
battery acid would drip down the side of the battery, down the
funnel-like battery support, straight down onto the PCM and the
wiring loom. It can also get onto the A/C lines. I believe they are
the vacuum lines that control the movement of the interior vents,
and usually the system will default to blowing out the defroster
vent. Sometimes car crippling damage would occur, sometimes not.
It worst it would mean replacing the battery, the PCM, the wiring
harness, grinding the rust off the frame to repaint it, changing
the A/C lines and possibly swapping out another computer as well.
This mostly happened on early C5’s because later C5’s used a
gel-type battery that cannot leak, but I believe the problem
resurfaced on ’04 or ’05 models again.

Check this out on any car you look at. Use a 8 mm wrench,
preferably a ratcheting closed-end version, to removed the battery
cables. You also remove a holding block on the front side of the
battery. You will need a long extension to reach it. The battery
basically lifts right out. Also remove the black plastic battery tray.
Look beneath the tray for rust or white powder. Signs of both are
evidence of battery acid damage. It would probably be best to move
to the next Vette unless you don't mind possibly tackling this repair
in the future. It's possible that the car will throw codes for no
apparent reason.

No matter what Vette you buy, just make sure you replace the battery
with a gel-type battery, like the Optima Redtop, sold at CostCo for
$100.

Grounding Problems aka CRAZY electrical gremlins!
Bill Curlee has a great thread on the problems that corroded ground
connections can create, and how to clean out the grounds. The most
problematic ground connections are behind the headlights on both
sides. Check out Bill’s thread for detailed info: Go!
Here’s where all the grounds are: Go!

Water Intrusion
Water leaks have several ways of getting in the car, and none of
them AFAIK are very difficult to fix. Proper adjustments and
maintenance will prevent most leaks.
Bill Curlee’s thread abouting locating & cleaning the udders, and
sealing the door hinges.
Here’s a few TSB’s from the CorvetteActionCenter.com:
1997-1998: Service Bulletin: Waterleak Above Door Glass (Reseal
Blowout Clip)
1997-2002: Service Bulletin: General Waterleak Guide
1997: Service Bulletin: Water Drips into Rear Compartment After
Hatch/Glass Has Been Opened

Seats
Corvette seats are delicate.

Sliding hard across the bolster can break it, causing it to flap
side-to-side.

The leather is cheap, and there's little protection for it. It
will wear out and form cracks, which is normal…for cheap leather.

The wire springs in the seat bottom, and the bars in the bolsters
can also wear thru the foam and leather, but that can be fixed by
placing layer of burlap between the springs and the foam.

Check the black plastic surround on the bottom of the seat to make
sure it fits snugly against the leather, and isn't cracked. Older
style plastic surrounds had a tendency to separate from the seat,
but could be pushed back in. The newer style plastic surrounds
can be used as a direct replacement, but one of the plastic studs
may need to be ground off, or a hole will need to get punched
into the leather.

The seats tend to rock back and forth by about a 1/4" during
acceleration and braking. It can be fixed, but GM will not fix it.
Some lucky owners can get the dealer to replace the frame under
warranty. The seat backs swinging forward under braking is normal,
and not considered a problem.

Here are a couple fixes:
Corvettemechanic.com --- must be a member
Rocking Seat Fix

Seat choice
Get the sport seats. The sport seats have a hole under the headrest.
Some people put racing harness belts thru those loops. The seat
frames and foam in both seats are interchangeable. Harness belt
holes can be installed using Ford harness cutouts. Ask the dealership
for them, they should know what it is without a part #. The foam in
a standard seat will need to be cut, and sewing will have to be done,
but it’s an easy job.

Headlight bezel plugs
There are 1-1/2" plugs that are located on the headlight bezels that
would fall off on the older Vette's. The new style plugs, have a
twist-lock to prevent them from falling out, but also requires new
bezels. Only the new bezels & plugs are available now, and they are
compatible with older C5’s.

Headlight gears
The gears in the headlight motor are plastic, and wear out over time.
Ice, heavy Euro or projector headlights and twilight sentinal will
cause the gears to wear out quickly. Fortunately a few years ago,
Rodney started selling replacement brass gears, check out his
website. Corvette America and probably a few other vendors now sell
their own copy of his brass gears. Here’s a thread that shows how to
replace the gears.

Roof noises
If you buy a coupe with a removable roof, you can expect wind noise
and some creaking. The wind noise will never totally go away, but if
there's creaking, you can eliminate that by thinly applying dielectric
silicone grease to the weather-stripping. It also prevents cracking,
so do this to all weather-stripping, on any car.

Hood rattles
During cold weather the rubber hood stops can also rub and rattle
against the hood. Adjust and lubricate the rubber stops so when you
pull the corner of the hood up, it doesn’t pull up, but the hood
still closes.

Drivetrain rattling
The valvetrain makes a significant amount of noise at idle. It may
sound like sewing machine. Converting the valve rockers to true
shaft-mounted adjustable roller rockers with may help eliminate the
valvetrain noise if adjusted properly. Installing a big cam and
stiffer valve springs will make the noise louder.

On manual transmission cars (M6 or M12), the transmission sounds
like it is rattling when leaving the line. It is normal. It is the
clutch throwout bearing rattling around. Sometimes you'll hear a
horrible rattle if you shut off the engine. If you press the clutch
pedal in while shutting off the car, you won't hear it.

Shaky breaking
The front brake rotors warp easily under heavy braking…or at least
that’s what uneducated drivers think. I tend to believe StopTech:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers...rotors_myth.htm

I verified this by lightly grinding my rotors with steel wool.
Garnet paper is recommended, but I haven’t tried it.

If you insist the problem is warping, don’t turn the rotors since
thinner rotors warp more easily. Resurfacing the rotors is only a
temporary fix, one that is less effective each time your resurface
the rotors due to the reduced thermal capacity of the rotors.
Rotors are available for $25 at Napa and RockAuto.

Scraped front ends and rocker panels
Checking for scrapes is an easy way to tell if the car was treated
well. It's almost impossible not to scrape the front end, but there
are two metal crash bar loops that should prevent the bumper from
scraping. The bumper itself should not have scrape marks on it. Check
the underside of the tip of the bumper, and the bottom corners of
the bumper. If the crash bar gets scraped enough, eventually it will
wear down to the point where it needs to get replaced. It costs
about $220 for the crash bar, nut-serts, bolts and insulators, and
can be replaced in a couple of hours, just be sure to hook the hoses
and electric connector back to the A.I.R. pump.
Here’s a list of ALL the parts you’ll need to replace the impact bar
and the side air deflectors:
Part #------Qty---Description
10188023---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator)
10278679---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator)
10278679---005---Nut
10400765---001---Plate (the actual impact bar, unpainted)
10419312---001---Panel (air deflector)
10419313---001---Panel (air deflector)
11515638---010---Nut-speci
11515757---010---Bolt-Metr
10281487---010---Nut
Not all of these parts need to get replaced, and there will be a few
leftovers, but it will get the job done.

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The rocker panels tend to get scraped on lifts and big speed bumps.

A & A Corvettes invented two products to prevent damage from both
kinds of scraping. They have wheels that attach to the crash bar,
allowing the car to roll on driveways instead of wearing down the
crash bar. It will still scrape the spoiler, but the spoiler is a
cheap wear item that takes only 2 minutes to replace without a lift
or jack. They also make two aluminum strips that attached the frame
next to the rocker panels, and they take the scrapes themselves
instead of the rockers panels. Neither of the devices are visible
unless looking under the car, and they are discreet enough to
possibly be missed anyway. If you see these devices installed, you
can be pretty sure the owner took good care of the car. Without this
extra protection, you can expect to replace the crash bar and repair
the rockers several times over the life of the car. WARNING: It won’t
stop all scraping damage, just reduce the possibility of it
happening, and reduce the damage when it does happen. Low hanging
headers will probably still scrape.

Hood seal weather-strip
The sides and back of the hood compartment have weather-strip
installed from the factory. The front is left open. Many owners
install weather-strip along this front edge. You may not even notice
it since it looks identical to rest of the weather-stripping. This
extra weather-strip helps keep the engine compartment clean, and may
also help the air intake system work better. This is another sign
that the owner took good care of the car. The engine compartment
stays pretty clean, but this the "extra step".

A/C System
There are two kinds of climate controls. One is manual with knobs,
and the other is a dual-zone electronic system. The dual-zone system
did cost more, but is not as reliable as the manual system. A leaking
battery can affect both systems. A strong system is when the vents
cannot be switched.

Over time, and especially in humid climates, the system can cause
condensation to leak onto the passenger side carpet. There are three
udders under the driver’s side cowl. There are slits on the bottom,
much like real udders. Vigorously squeeze and massage the udders
until the debris has fallen out. Stop laughing!

If the vent settings cannot be changed, the vacuum line is probably
loose, clogged or broken. Read more!

Squeaky steering wheel
When you turn the steering wheel, you may hear a squeak. It's just
the plastic surfaces rubbing against each other. A shot of lubricant
fixes this.

Squeaky/chirping/grinding wheel bearings
Drive slowly, better yet, coast along at low speeds with the windows
open in a quiet location. Listen for a squeak from the wheels. Try
turning in different directions. If you hear the rear wheels squeaking,
you may have a worn wheel bearing. A replacement bearing costs $600
list, but you can usually find it for $400-450. I've heard that
AutoZone has a better replacement for $126 by a company named Timken.
The part is easy to replace if you can separate the ball joints.
I had to buy a special Kent-Moore tool to do mine. This problem may
persist safely for a few months, but eventually will become annoying.
It seems to be a common problem, and more so for the rear wheel
bearing. I've never heard of it happening twice to the same car,
so if you fix it once, you're probably good for life. Several racers
replace their wheel bearing every year.

A broken emergency drum clip may cause a false diagnosis. Be careful
when removing & replacing the rear rotors.

Oil woes
Many late 2000 thru 2001 Vette's burn a lot of oil when the engine
is kept constantly over 4,000 rpm's. This is caused by ring flutter,
which allows extra oil to seep past the oil control rings, but
doesn't seem to cause any extra wear to the engine. Chevrolet has
rebuilt and replaced engines for owners that complained about
excessive oil consumption. Their policy is that while the engine
isn't normally operated like that outside of racing, it is the
owner's prerogative to drive around in second gear all the time if
they want to. It is covered under the warranty.

The PCV system also has a tendency to suck oil back into the intake
at high rpm's. It doesn't seem to cause any problems, other than a
slight mess inside the intake manifold. The newer style PCV system
can be installed, but this requires removing all the components in
the top of the engine valley. Usually only racer's bother with the
hassle. Several generations of PCV systems have had the problem,
and at this time, December 2004, the PCV system still sucks oil into
the intake.

The oil-sucking problem will cause carbon buildup in the cylinders.
The dealership sells GM Top End Cleaner, and Napa sells SeaFoam. The
Top End Cleaner is not available in some smog states like California.
Run a tube from the bottle into the hole for the PCV system behind the
throttle body on the passenger side. Start the car, then start
slowly sucking the solution into the engine. Don’t go too fast or the
engine could lockup. As soon as the solution is gone, stop the motor
for >4 hours, but preferably 12 hours. Be aware that when the engine
is restarted, there will be a LOT of smoke!

The oil-sucking can be prevented by installing a catch can. AMW and
Greddy make catch cans, but a homebuilt catch can may be built using
a Campbell-Hausfield air tool oil separator from most tool stores,
including AutoZone. The AMW and Greddy cans are ~$100, but look
great. The CH can is $15-25 for all the parts, and you can see how
much oil is in it.

Overheating & burning smells
Even though the engine can heat up to 220, even 240 degrees
Fahrenheit, this is normal. The radiator will keep the engine cool
enough unless the radiator is blocked. Reprogramming the PCM can
allow the fans to turn on earlier. If the fans also cool an
aftermarket oil cooler, make sure the oil occasionally gets to 220
degrees to allow condensation and fuel to evaporate away. Fan
settings and oil thermostats are two different ways to do this.

It's not uncommon for plastic bags to get sucked up under the front
bumper, and cover the radiator, thus causing the car to truly
overheat. If this happens, take a quick peek under the bumper, and
remove anything under there. Sometimes bags get stuck to the exhaust
pipes too, causing quite a stench as they burn away.

Locked steering column
All C5’s, particularly manual transmission C5’s, and early C6
steering columns have a tendency to lock and stay locked. Usually it
can be unlocked once, but just once. Some owners claim that
vigorously shaking the steering wheel can unlock the steering wheel.
Dealer's are able to disable the locking mechanism with a modified
locking plate. Currently this is the only real method to disable the
locking mechanism. Basically the wheel will still try to lock, but
there will be nothing for it to lock to. It’s like a door dead bolt
with a slot cut into the door jamb. There is a $100 kit that disables
the steering column lock, and can be installed easily, but enough
car vibrations can cause the lock to fall into the locking plate,
even while driving!

GM has a part (#88952428 or 8895242 that has a harness wiring
jumper and different lock plate. Not sure what the difference in
the kits are.

After reading a few posts, manual transmission C5’s & C6’s are still
in danger, even if the lock is disabled. The lock can vibrate out
over time and get trapped in the locking plate. Auto transmission
cars that have undergone the recall and new auto’s will not have the
locking plate at all, so they are safe. More information about
COMPLETELY disabling the steering column lock will be forthcoming
from other’s on the forum, and by my own personal project. Until
then, here are a few links about the topic:
Corvette Forum - Column Lock Harness K Installation
Corvettemechanic - A4 non locking column plate --- must be a member
Corvette Forum - Column-lock again even with CLB!
Corvette Forum - Has anyone ELSE beat column lock?

Faulty gas gauge
If you have bad gas (phew!), the fuel sender can be affected by the
high sulfur content in the fuel, and cause the gauge to read empty.
They car will still operate normally, and the gas gauge will work
again if you use better gas, and will usually start again when you
restart the car. It's just better to use good gas. Some people have
had luck with running fuel filter cleaners thru the gas tank. New
fuel senders sometimes fixes this problem. This thread has a LOT of
ideas about what could be causing the problems, how to avoid
problems, and how to fix it. It also points out how the late C5 fuel
tanks and crossover tube is different.

Noisy fuel pump
There are two fuel tanks, and two fuel pumps. One fuel pump
continually pumps gas from the passenger side tank into the driver
side tank, and is quiet. The main fuel pump is directly behind
the drivers seat, and can be annoying loud, especially on early
C5’s. It's normal, and not a sign of a failing fuel pump. Chevrolet
does have a bulletin out instructing how to better insulate against
the sound of the fuel pump. This is merely an annoyance. A newer,
quieter pump can also be installed.

Extremely high oil pressure reading
The oil pressure sensor can fail, but it is still okay to drive.
Turn the car off, but with the key in the "on" position and check
the oil pressure gauge. It should read "0". If the oil pressure
sensor is bad, it will show a positive reading. The oil pressure
sender is located behind the intake manifold, and will require
moving the intake manifold. The sender costs about $40 and part
# 12573107 or 12562230.
How-to
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Suspension squeaking
In cold weather you may hear the suspension creak when you go over
speed bumps. To fix this, clean (optional) and lubricate the sway
bar bushings. The adjustable metal sway bar end links on Hotchkis
and T1 bars can also create loud clicking sounds. Most adjustable
end links are quiet initially, but wear out and get noisy over
time. Greasing and protecting the end links from dirt may prevent
wear.

Tough shifting
The shifter in manually shifted Corvette's takes a strong arm to
get it into gear. You really have to make sure that the shifter
is fully in 1st and Reverse, or it will pop out of gear when you
let the clutch out. This is not the fault of the car, but rather
the fault of the driver.

Manual transmissions -- Replacing the transmission fluid often
helps shifting. Early transmissions have paper blocker ring that
require Dexron III compatible (usually organic) fluid because some
synthetics will destroy the paper blocker rings and subsequently
the transmission. Later transmissions, and all rebuilt transmissions
, have Kevlar/carbon fiber parts that allow the use of synthetic
fluids. I believe the 98-00 transmissions have the paper blocker
rings. The safe transmission fluids seem to be: GM Synchromesh
PN #12345349, Honda ATF-Z1, Royal Purple Synchromax, Amsoil ATF,
O’Reilly Dexron III ATF. The following transmission fluids may be
unsafe for early transmissions: Redline D4 ATF, Mobil 1 ATF, Royal
Purple Max ATF.
Related threads:
LS1.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them
fail?
LS1Tech.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them
fail?
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for a M6?

If it is especially tough to shift into 2nd or 4th gear, it's
possible that the synchro's are worn out or the forks are bent.
Do NOT force it into gear. Abuse creates and aggravates this problem.
You can still drive, even quite well, without synchro's....or a
clutch for that matter if you know how to rev match.

Some aftermarket shifters make it easier to make sure you're fully
in gear, and prevent gear grinding, but they also vibrate, and
require more effort to shift. The stock shifter has a tuned weight
damper that changes the vibrations to a non-audible frequency. The
shaking doesn’t annoy some people, and there are some fixes.

Leaky butt
The differential can leak from the side covers. The problem has to
do with the design. The lip on the casing is not wide enough to
create a proper seal with the cover. Resealing the covers can be
successful, but many dealers do not use the correct sealant.

Inside/outside tire spinning
If one tire spins while turning, adjust the friction modifier ratio.
Aftermarket gear fluid from Royal Purple, Amsoil and Redline do not
require additional friction modifier. GM’s friction modifier is
PN #12377916. Too much friction modifier and the inside tire will
spin/skip/hop. Too little friction modifier and the outside tire
will spin/skip/hop. -- Thanks Russ!

Tire hop
Tire hop during hard acceleration in cold weather is common, even
if the same tires don’t hop in warmer weather. Tire rubber when
viewed thru a microscope looks like a web. Normally parts of this
web grabs onto objects on the ground and stretch until either the
car moves forward, or the web breaks, resulting in tire spin. I
believe in cold weather, the web is too stiff for either of these
events to occur, so the tires hop. To find out more, read Racing
& High Performance Tire: Using Tires to Tune for Grip and Balance.
I haven’t read it, but if you do, please let me know if my guess
is correct. I found a couple stories on Google about people curing
wheel hop with stiffer bushings and/or (jounce) shocks.

Interior rattles
The visors may rattle when they are put up, but if you flip them
down, the rattle goes away. Squeezing the mirror lid down seems to
take care of it. Try glueing a piece of felt or velcro between the
mirror and lid to see if that fixes it. Caravaggio also makes
replacement leather visors, but they go for $400.

The stereo is Bose, and to go along with the historically crappy
build quality of Bose products, Bose has graced the Corvette with
Bose emblems on the door speaker covers that rattle when you play
music with bass. A Bose system doesn't exist that puts out good
bass, but the system still manages to rattle the emblems when
playing Country, Hip Hop, or Techno at moderate volumes. Check
this problem by having a passenger and yourself putting a finger
on the emblems with music playing. Glue the emblems down to fix it.

If the roof isn't tightened down enough, it will rattle. There are
some adjustment screws in the roof to make this adjustment.

Belt Chirping
During cold weather, the belt can chirp. Goodyear Gatorback belts
from AutoZone don’t chirp.

Sticky Hatch
During cold weather, the hatch may pop up slowly, or not at all.
Spray the latches with silicone grease until they come up properly.
If the struts do not hold up the hatch, try lubing the strut bars.
1997: Service Bulletin: Hatch Will Not Pop Up When Activated in
Cold Weather

Rocker failure
The needle bearings in the OEM rockers have been known to fail.
Usually the problem is noticed with extra valvetrain noise and
needle bearings stuck to a magnetic oil plug. Nasty Performance
will rebuild OEM rockers with Harland Sharp bearings. This seems
to be one of the better solutions since the stock rocker is very
good at high rpms. Most aftermarket rockers are nose heavy and
require grinding the heads and valve covers to fit. Currently
Harland Sharp rockers are having problems with c-clip retainers
falling off and causing problems on the way. I’ll be following
this issue since I have a set of HS rockers on my shelf waiting
for this issue to be resolved. Here are some links:
LS1Tech - EMERGENCY!! ROCKERS! Help ASAP!
LS1Tech - Harland Sharp Rocker Failure
LS1Tech - Install or not install HS rockers?

Other Information

Active Stability Control
This allows you to keep some control of the car even when you do
really stupid stunts. It doesn't bend the laws of physics, but will
keep the car pointed where you are steering; you may still slide off
the road, but at least the car will be pointed in the direction you
were steering! One of the sensors is located around the passenger
seat, and needs to be considered when installing a racing bucket.
If you move that sensor, Active Stability will not know how to
balance the car, and can be very dangerous. Active Stability came
out around '99.

Jacking
The C5 was the first car to use hydroformed frame rails. Hydroformed
rails are quickly becoming a common platform for new cars, but not
many shops are prepared to lift these vehicles. The C5 requires an
adapter for regular jacks and lifts to fit the jacking points. Make
your own adapters with a hockey puck (or two) with a 1 1/2" eye bolt
screwed thru the center. Stick the eye bolt thru the slit in the
jacking point, turn 90 degrees, place jack under adapter and jack
away....if you can get the jack under the car. You may have to use
ramps. The C5 is so low that most people make their own wooden
ramps....rhino ramps are too steep.

Key Fobs
There are basically two different kinds of key fobs, and they are
not compatible with each other.
97-00, but 00 does not have the Passive Lock feature
01-04

Spark plugs
The OEM platinum plugs, along with other plugs have had problems
with the pucks falling off. I have a picture of missing pucks in
this thread. This thread outlines some of the problems with using
platinum, and a recommendation for using silver tipped plugs.
Basically, of all spark plug tips, platinum is the worst conductor,
copper is good, iridium is even better and silver is the best. Don’t
take my word for it, do a little research, starting with this
review. As for longevity, platinum, iridium and silver do have an
advantage over copper, but plugs foul up after ~10K negating any
difference corrosion would cause, and no plug will run well after
100K miles.

To make the spark plugs easier to change, get the Snap-On
double-swivel sparkplug tool and remove the coil packs. Here’s all
you need to know about sparkplug changes: Go!

________________________________________ _______________________

These problems, and many others, are addressed at the
www.corvetteactioncenter.com in the Tech Center -> Knowledge Base.

While these problems do sound numerous and severe, just remember
that JD Power considers this a very reliable car. If you buy a
Corvette, consider yourself fortunate that there are many resources
available to help you locate and correct problems.

Secrets of the C5
Copied from
www.corvettemechanic.com

Quote:
● The little yellow "helper light" on the bottom of the rear-view
mirror that illuminates the shifter area.
● That you can put your key in the driver’s door and turn it twice
towards the front to unlock the passenger door and a third time to
pop the trunk.

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