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C4 Projekti Kertomukset Vikakoodeja ja Ruiskumoottoreita, vahvaa ja informatiivista C4 projekti kerrontaa.

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  #11  
Old 26.01.2010, 21:51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vette-91
Hmm.. Miniramin mukana tulee uusi termarin kotelo, mutta senkään kanssa toi vesikierto ei mahdu olemaan.. ja muistaakseni siihen ei olisi käynyt vakio kotelo siitä huolimatta vaikka ton vesikierron poisti..en vaan enää muista mistä se ahdisti..

No kyllä tuohon kuitenkin menee normi termarin koppa kun raksii tuon yhteen pois tuosta esilämmityksestä..

Ja tuossa yorccin kanssa tutkailtiin että vakio ohjelmalla menee tuo kone toistaiseksi pitää lastuhommelit laittaa tilaukseen...

Olisikohan tuossa ratkaisu tehonnälkään ihan 4km päässä olis myynnissä...
http://www.blocket.se/haparanda/GM_P...1&w=1 &last=1
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  #12  
Old 30.01.2010, 15:09
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Welome to the new section! This section is intended to be a common place to exchange ideas and get experience to help all of us get our Corvette’s running their best. I am by no means an expert when it comes to ECM/PCM tuning, but I have been doing my own cars for a couple of years now, and also done some tuning for others.

This post will attempt to outline which ECM/PCM your Corvette uses, what hardware and software are necessary to get started, and where to learn more about tuning. I’m only going to cover the most widely programmable cars… 1985-1994. The 1984 is not very popular for hacking, and is not covered much anywhere. 1996 is OBDII and is not as easy to hack either. Some people with a 1996 will backdate the PCM to a 1995 (there’s more to it than just swapping the PCM) which allows them to program it.

What does my Corvette have?
The ECM/PCM for each year is as follows:

Years covered – ECM Part Number
1985 – 1226870
1986-1989 - 1227165
1990-1991 – 1227727
1992-1993 - 16159278
1994-1995 -16181333 or 16188051


How do I program my computer?

The 1985-1993 ECM has a removable chip that can be erased, and placed in an EPROM programmer to program. The 1994 and up PCM has a soldered flash chip that must be flashed through the ALDL connector, similar to flashing your BIOS on your pc.
So for the 1994 and up, you’ll program it a little different than later years.

The idea is the same for all years. You can ‘read’ the existing programming, save it to a file, manipulate this file, then ‘write’ the changes back to the chip.


What do I need?

For ’85-’93 Corvette’s you’ll need an EPROM burner and EPROM eraser. These range in price from about $139-$200 and up for a burner, and about $50 for an eraser. Some models of burners include:

Pocket Programmer - http://www.xtronics.com/memory/EPROM.htm
Needhams EMP-10 - http://www.needhams.com/e10.html

A popular eraser is the Datarase II - http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp?itemno=gr-datarase
For ’94 and up you’ll need a laptop with the appropriate program that can read the programming in the flash chip, and also flash the chip with any changes that you make later.

Each EPROM burner will have its own programming software to burn the chips.

Editing software.

Once you have read the programming and saved it to a file, you’ll need editing software to make the necessary changes to the file.

There are a few programs to choose from as well. Some of the more popular include:

Tunercat – http://www.tunercat.com/
Winbin – http://www.spiritone.com/~eoa/Cars/EFI/
GMEPro –
LT1Edit for ’94-’95 cars – http://www.lt1.net/editor/Lt1edit.htm


Each has its pros and cons. I have used Tunercat and it has worked well for me.


Also recommended is some kind of scan utility. Popular programs are:

Diacom: http://www.rinda.com/auto/auto.htm
EASE: http://www.obd2.com/
AutoXRay: http://www.autoxray.com/index.htm

AKM electronics also makes cables that will attach your laptop and connect with some programs that are free on the internet. http://www.mindspring.com/~amattei/akmelect.htm

You’ll need these to see what your ECM/PCM is doing and make necessary adjustments based on this info.

I use a laptop and Diacom Plus. There are cheaper alternatives, as long as you get the data and can interpret it, that’s all you really need.

Once you’ve gathered all the necessary equipment, changing your chip would go something like this:

1. Monitor your engine with the scan tool while driving at part throttle and wide open throttle.
2. Analyze the data to see what types of changes you want to make.
3. Remove your EPROM from the ECM.
4. Read the existing programming with the programmer and save it to a file.
5. Open this file in the editing software.
6. Make necessary changes and save the file.
7. Erase the EPROM in the eraser.
8. Load the file up in the EPROM burning software.
9. Program the EPROM with the new file.
10. Install the chip in the ECM.
11. Go back to 1 and do this until the car does what you want!


Of course it’s not all that easy, such as erasing the EPROM on a memcal. The EPROM is soldered on there so you either need to unsolder it or rig the eraser to erase the chip while still on the memcal.

Also, if you have a ’94-’95 PCM, you will use the laptop the pull the existing program and make the changes, then flash the PCM. You won’t need an EPROM burner or eraser.

Some things that will help you get up to speed on programming are learning what all of the sensors and inputs are on your engine. Get a Helms Factory Service Manual for your year and learn what TPS, IAC, O2, MAT, MAF/MAP are and what they do. The manual will also help decipher any codes that the ECM/PCM catches so that you can fix things. Well worth the money.

************************


added info by Jeff Kopp from Superior Chevrolet:


Some of the popular ECM's Craig mentioned have also been replaced with newer P/N's. Here's a list of them:
1227165 -> 16198259
1227727 -> 16198260
1227730 -> 16198262

These are known to be updated designs and usually considered desireable replacements,

Also, another difference between the MAF and MAP (Speed Density) systems is that the MAP system does not use a separate, external knock module. It is made onto the memcal itself and IMO is less "buggy" than the older system. -Jeff


**************************************

Added info by Mojo: (some good stuff that I forgot to mention!)

Those using the 27C256 Eprom can opt for the AT29C256 Flash Eprom to eliminate the need for an eraser. It's also a longer lasting chip.


Scanning software:
Can't forget Craig Moates' free software. I don't have the link handy, but it's a great package.
Then there's TTS Datamaster. Registration is around $90. It's a windows based app that's absolutely great. It's my personal preference. The demo ships with the AKM cable and is good for 20 runs.

Crossreference for ECM swappers:
When we refer to the '7730 ECM, it is the same as the Corvette's '727 ECM, and also GM's '262 (which is just an updated '730).

Basic system differences:
The two basic systems are MAF (Mass Air Flow) and Speed Density. The '870 and '165 ECM's are MAF systems, while the 90-91 is an SD system. The speed density system is the preferred system on heavily modded L-98's due to the 255g/s limitation in the MAF systems.

PE tuning:
The standard scan and retune doesn't work for PE or WOT tuning because at WOT the system goes into open loop. Standard O2 sensors aren't much good beyond the proper stoichiometric ratio. Because the desired A/F ratio during PE is 12:1, a wideband sensor or other method of measurement is required.

*****************************
Added by Ken73:

You're also forgetting the 1982 Vettes. They have the same motor as the 1984. The ECM's that come in them are the following:

1982: 1225550
1984 auto: 1226026
1984 man: 1226430

None of these are hacked YET. We're still working on them and may have TunerCat definitions far in the future, but the likelyhood of that is slimming down with the advent of the upgrade ECM - the 1227747 - from a 1987-1991 Chevy pickup.

(read more in his post below....)

***********************************


Hopefully we will get a variety of people here that will have input beyond what I can give. The most important thing to remember while programming is to do little pieces at a time. You must also be patient.

I hope this helps you get started and if others notice mistakes in this or have something to add, let me know and I’ll get it on here ASAP! As I said, I am no expert when it comes to programming. I just know my cars pretty well and have a pretty good understanding of alot of this.


Credit for the things I've learned go to:
http://www.diy-efi.org : The website that got me started.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/gm-eproms/ : Mike Davis' site. Got me going on my '85. Great info.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb/ : Thirdgen prom board. Great info there.

http://www.tunercat.com/ : good reference for what ecm is in what car.


Selvät ohjeet löyty mitä tehdä :-\\\
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  #13  
Old 01.02.2010, 11:40
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melkeen sopiva.. uusi tulossa tpis omanlaisensa thermostat housing..

tuo pitäisi käydä. aika bling bling crome plated ja kaikkee
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  #14  
Old 13.02.2010, 16:24
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Ei mee tuokaan koppa liian paksu reunanen ottaa kii imukanteen ja paksummalle letkullekkin PRKL.... muuten olis menny modaamalla jota en kyllä millään haluais tehdä kun juuri siksi uutta hommaamassa
pitänee laittaa tuo vanha modattu mukana paluupostissa malliksi..
jos osaisivat sitten laittaa sellasen joka käy...
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  #15  
Old 13.02.2010, 16:28
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Quote:





mikset tuota vaan vienyt lähimmälle hitsaustaitoiselle ja pyytäny kääntämään laippaa oikeaan asentoon, vai ottaako tb kiinni?
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  #16  
Old 13.02.2010, 19:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q11
mikset tuota vaan vienyt lähimmälle hitsaustaitoiselle ja pyytäny kääntämään laippaa oikeaan asentoon, vai ottaako tb kiinni?

Näyttäis valetulta komponentilta? Ei paha tosin, mutta tuo lisää haastetta hitsaukseen.
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  #17  
Old 13.02.2010, 19:53
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No meinasin vaan laittaa ehjän siistin hitsaamattoman kopan tuon modatun tilalle mutta noita löytynee satoja erilaisia ja tuo eka väärä vielä jotain hiekkavalu "rautaa" ei köykämiiniä kuten tuo tpis versio eipä olis uskonut että us-parts ei osaa sopivaa osaa toimittaa
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  #18  
Old 13.02.2010, 20:03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heimo huima
Näyttäis valetulta komponentilta? Ei paha tosin, mutta tuo lisää haastetta hitsaukseen.

Juuri näin. Hitsaus tuo aikamoisen haasteen, mutta mahdollista. Ensin pitäisi tietää valukappaleen seosainemäärät. Siinä suurin haaste. Jos sen saa selvitettyä (aika mahdotonta pienillä kustannuksilla) niin sitten vaan valitsemaan hitsauslisäainetta, ennen hitsausta lämmitys (lämpötila ja lämpötilan nousuaika), hitsauslämpötila, hitsauksen jälkeistä lämmönlaskua.

Kuten kaikissa putkien hitsauksissa, joissa oleellista putken sisäpuolella tapahtuva virtaus, niin putken sisäpuolisen hitsin laatu on oleellista, kuten pakoputkissa. Moni kukka päältä kaunis
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  #19  
Old 13.02.2010, 20:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hateju
No meinasin vaan laittaa ehjän siistin hitsaamattoman kopan tuon modatun tilalle mutta noita löytynee satoja erilaisia ja tuo eka väärä vielä jotain hiekkavalu "rautaa" ei köykämiiniä kuten tuo tpis versio eipä olis uskonut että us-parts ei osaa sopivaa osaa toimittaa

Kuten kirjoitin jo että Miniramilla tulee mukana tohon oma koppa..eli se on varmaan ihan omaa Tpis:in tekoa..

Tuolta vois löytyä uusi tilalle..

http://www.tpis.com/
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  #20  
Old 13.02.2010, 20:39
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Joo olisihan sen saanut tpis versionkin tilattua sieltä muuta kun oli tuo hyllyssä ja meinasivat että käy niin otin sen mutta mutta
ehkä kolmas kerta toden sanoo alkaa vaan sieppaan värkätä tommosen käikäleen takia viikko tolkulla
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