#21
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Corveten tunkkaus ylös:
http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lift.php Polttoainesuuttimien vaihto: http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07...ors/index.html Korjausohjeita moneen vaivaan: http://www.smokinvette.com/corvettef...splay.php?f=61 Throttle Bodyn porttaus kotikontein: http://www.banfacebook.com/post/DIY-...ttle-Body.aspx Magna Charger testaus: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...t/blownc5.html
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
#22
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Testejä, esittelyjä ja asennusohjeita VIDEONA. (ei pelkästään C5 vaan myös muut mallit)
http://www.ecklers.com/video.asp?Pag...=1&find%5Fspec=
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
#23
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Quote:
Tästä sen verran että tarttee LS1 koneeseen ainakin heitellä 1/2 " spacerit venakoppien alle. Nokka esim Lingenfelter GT7 (nosto .554/.546)
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Hurley Andersson 74cid '55 (+ few else)
Ducati 749R factory race bike
Flat track racer Harley 74cid Corvette C3 FIA racer 454cid Vette Racing
Kilpa-ajot pitää nähdä, kuulla ja haistaa |
#24
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Hyvä huomio.
Tuntuu että melkein minkä vaan aftermarket keinut laittaa niin ei mahdu vakio koppien alle.Luvataan mitä vaan....vähemmällä pääsee spacereilla kuin koneistamalla venakoppia.
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
#25
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Quote:
Yx yella terran mailli taitaa mennä ilman spacereita, en nyt vaan muista et mikä malli se oli. Pääsääntöisesti kyllä vaatii noi spacerit.
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C5 -99 (manuaali) |
#26
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Vikakoodit
Corvette 1997-2000 Codes
To list your codes, turn the ignition key to the ON position, but don't start the engine. Clear any present DIC messages (like Door Ajar, or Service Steering Column) by pressing the RESET button. Then hold the OPTIONS button down, while pressing the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car is or has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. You can watch it display codes for every module in your car. If you want to write them down, go ahead. Any code that ends in H is a history code - something that has occured in the past but is fine now. The computer is very sensative and would throw a code if you turned the radio off while tuning it. Once the computer has finished going through all of it's automatic codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES". If it shows a number of codes, press and hold RESET until it displays "NO CODES". This is how you reset your codes. 10-PCM - Powertrain Control Module P0101 Mass Air Flow (MAF) System Performance P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency P0107 Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage P0108 Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage P0112 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage P0117 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Sensor Low Voltage P0118 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Sensor High Voltage P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Excessive Time to Closed Loop Fuel Control P0131 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0132 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0133 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0134 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0135 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0137 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0138 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0140 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0141 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0151 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0152 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0153 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0154 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0155 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0157 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0158 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0160 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0161 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1 P0172 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1 P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2 P0175 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 2 P0230 Fuel Pump Control Circuit P0300 Engine Misfire Detected P0325 Knock Sensor (KS) System P0327 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Front P0332 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Rear P0335 CKP Sensor Circuit P0336 CKP Sensor Circuit Performance P0341 CMP Circuit Performance P0342 CMP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage P0343 CMP Sensor Circuit High Voltage P0351 Ignition Control #1 Circuit P0352 Ignition Control #2 Circuit P0353 Ignition Control #3 Circuit P0354 Ignition Control #4 Circuit P0355 Ignition Control #5 Circuit P0356 Ignition Control #6 Circuit P0357 Ignition Control #7 Circuit P0358 Ignition Control #8 Circuit P0410 AIR System P0412 AIR Solenoid Relay Control Circuit P0418 AIR Pump Relay Control Circuit P0420 TWC System Low Efficiency Bank 1 P0430 TWC System Low Efficiency Bank 2 P0441 EVAP System No Flow During Purge P0461 Fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit Performance P0462 Fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit Low Voltage P0463 Fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage P0480 FC Relay 1 Control Circuit P0481 FC Relay 2 and 3 Control Circuit P0500 VSS Circuit (M/T) P0506 Idle Speed Low P0507 Idle Speed High P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit P0562 System Voltage Low P0563 System Voltage High P0567 Cruise Resume Circuit P0568 Cruise Set Circuit P0571 Cruise Brake Switch Circuit (M/T) P0601 PCM Memory P0602 PCM Not Programmed P0604 PCM RAM Performance P0606 PCM Internal Communication Interrupted P0608 VSS Output Circuit P0650 MIL Control Circuit P0654 Engine Speed Output Circuit P0704 Clutch Switch Circuit (M/T) P0705 Transmission Range Switch Circuit (A/T) P0706 Transmission Range Switch Performance (A/T) P0801 Reverse Inhibit Solenoid Control Circuit (M/T) P0803 1-4 Upshift Solenoid Control Circuit (M/T) P0804 1-4 Upshift Lamp Control Circuit (M/T) P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage P1112 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage P1114 ECT Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage P1115 ECT Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage P1120 TP Sensor 1 Circuit P1125 APP System P1133 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1 P1134 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Transition Time Ratio Bank 1 Sensor 1 P1153 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1 P1154 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Transition Time Ratio Bank 2 Sensor 1 P1220 TP Sensor 2 Circuit P1221 TP Sensors 1, 2 Performance P1258 Engine Coolant Over Temperature-Fuel Disabled P1275 APP Sensor 1 Circuit P1276 APP Sensor 1 Circuit Performance P1280 APP Sensor 2 Circuit P1281 APP Sensor 2 Circuit Performance P1285 APP Sensor 3 Circuit P1286 APP Sensor 3 Circuit Performance P1380 EB (T) CM DTC Detected- Rough Road Data Unusable P1381 Misfire Detected - No EB (T) CM/PCM Serial Data P1415 AIR System Bank 1 P1416 AIR System Bank 2 P1431 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit Performance P1432 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Low Voltage P1433 Fuel Level Sensor 2 High Voltage P1441 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge P1514 TAC System MAF Performance P1515 Command vs Actual Throttle Position Performance (PCM Module) P1516 Command vs Actual Throttle Position Performance (TAC Module) P1517 TAC Module Processor P1518 PCM to TAC Module Serial Data Circuit P1539 A/C Clutch Status Circuit High Voltage P1545 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit P1546 A/C Clutch Status Circuit Low Voltage P1571 ASR Desired Torque P1574 Stop Lamp Control Circuit P1575 Extended Travel Brake Switch Circuit High Voltage P1626 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Enable Circuit P1630 Theft Deterrent System PCM In Learn Mode P1631 Theft Deterrent System Password Incorrect P1635 5 Volt Reference #1 Circuit P1639 5 Volt Reference #2 Circuit P1644 Delivered Torque Output Circuit P1652 Powertrain Induced Chassis Pitch Output Circuit 28-TCS - Traction Control System C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open C1217 BPMV Pump Motor Relay Contact CKT Open C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1222 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1223 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1224 RR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1226 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1227 LR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1228 RR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1234 LR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1235 RR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1236 Low System Supply Voltage C1237 High System Supply Voltage C1241 Magna Steer Circuit Malfunction C1242 BPMV Pump Motor Ground Circuit Open C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction CEBCM Internal Malfunction C1261 LF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1262 LF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1263 RF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1264 RF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1265 LR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1266 LR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1267 RR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1268 RR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1273 RF TCS Master Cyl Isolation Valve Malfunction C1274 RF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction C1276 Delivered Torque Signal CKT Malfunction C1277 Requested Torque Signal CKT Malfunction C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM C1281 Steering Sensor Uncorrelated Malfunction C1286 Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction C1291 Open Brake Lamp Sw Contacts During Deccel C1293 DTC C1291/C1292 Set Curnt/Prev Ign Cylce C1294 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Always Active C1295 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM U1255 Generic Loss Communications U1300 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to Ground U1301 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to Battery to be continued...
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
#27
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38-RTD - Real Time Damping
C1650 ESC Module Malfunction C1658 EEPROM Calibration Malfunction C1710 LF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage) C1711 LF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND) C1712 LF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit) C1715 RF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage) C1716 RF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND) C1717 RF Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit) C1720 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage) C1721 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND) C1722 LR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit) C1725 RR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to Voltage) C1726 RR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Short to GND) C1727 RR Shock Absorber Solenoid (Open Circuit) C1743 Loss of Vehicle Speed Signal C1760 LF Position Sensor (Out of Range) C1761 RF Position Sensor (Out of Range) C1762 LR Position Sensor (Out of Range) C1763 RR Position Sensor (Out of Range) C1768 Position Sensor Supply Malfunction (Overcurrent) C1780 Loss of Steering Position Signal C1786 RTD Control Relay Malfunction C1787 RTD Control Relay Circuit (Open or Short to GND) C1788 RTD Control Relay Circuit (Short to Voltage) C1790 Ride Control Switch (Out of Range) C1791 Ride Control Switch (Contact Malfunction) 40-BCM -Body Control Module B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit B0433 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit B0502 RH DRL Relay Circuit B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit B0507 LH DRL Relay Circuit B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit B0605 BCM Internal Memory Function B0844 BCM Temporarily Inhibit ABS B2403 Front Fog Lamp Switch Circuit B2408 Rear Fog Lamp Switch Circuit B2482 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit B2483 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit B2527 Horn Relay Circuit B2528 Horn Relay Circuit B2573 Hatch Release Switch Circuit (Short to Voltage) B2578 RF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage) B2583 LF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage) B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A) B2588 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A) B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B) B2583 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B) B2597 Traction Control System Switch Circuit B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit B2735 PASS-Key Programming Mode Active U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction 60-IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster B0516 Speedometer Signal Circuit Malfunction B0521 Tachometer Signal Circuit Malfunction B1512 DIC Switch 1 Signal Short to GND "FUEL" B1517 DIC Switch 2 Signal Short to GND "GAGES" B1522 DIC Switch 3 Signal Short to GND "TRIP" B1527 DIC Switch 4 Signal Short to GND "OPTIONS" B1532 DIC Switch 5 Signal Short to GND "E/M" B1537 DIC Switch 6 Signal Short to GND "RESET" B1542 Oil Temperature Circuit Short to GND B1543 Oil Temperature Circuit Open U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS U1056 Loss of Communications with RTD U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM U1128 Loss of Communications with Radio U1153 Loss of Communications with HVAC U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM U1161 Loss of Communications with RDCM U1166 Loss of Communications with SCM U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction 80-Radio - Radio Not Found 99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning B0332 Outside Air Temp Sensor Short to GND B0333 Outside Air Temp Sensor Open B0337 Inside Air Temp Sensor Short to GND B0338 Inside Air Temp Sensor Open B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range B0446 Right Actuator Out of Range B1016 Loss of Communications with PCM U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module B2202 Left Window Up Switch Fault B2204 Left Window Down Switch Fault B2206 Right Window Up Switch Fault B2208 Right Window Down Switch Fault B2222 LT Mirror Select Switch Fault B2224 RT Mirror Select Switch Fault B2226 Mirror Right Switch Fault B2228 Mirror Left Switch Fault B2232 Mirror Up Switch Fault B2234 Mirror Down Switch Fault B2236 Left Door Lock Switch Fault B2238 Left Door UnLock Switch Fault B2242 Memory 1 Switch Fault B2244 Memory 2 Switch Fault B2252 Key Cylinder Switch Fault B2262 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault B2272 Left Mirror Motor Fault B2274 Window Motor Fault B2276 Door Lock Motor/Mirror Heater Fit B2282 Battery #1 Fault B2284 Battery #2 Fault B2286 +5V Reference Fault U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module B2203 Right Window Up Switch Fault B2205 Right Window Down Switch Fault B2237 Right Door Lock Switch Fault B2239 Right Door Un-Lock Switch Fault B2253 Key Cylinder Switch Fault B2263 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit B2265 Horizontal Position Sensor Fault B2273 Right Mirror Motor Fault B2275 Window Motor Fault B2277 Door Lock Motor/Mirror Heater Fit B2283 Battery #1 Fault B2285 Battery #2 Fault B2287 +5V Reference Fault U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction A6-SCM - Seat Control Module B0846 Battery 2 Out of Range B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range B2002 Fore/Aft Seat Motor Open or Short to GND B2007 Front Vertical Seat Motor Open or Shorted B2012 Rear Vertical Seat Motor Open or Shorted B2172 Seat Front Up Switch Shorted to GND B2177 Seat Front Down Switch Shorted to GND B2182 Seat Rear Up Switch Shorted to GND B2187 Seat Rear Down Switch Shorted to GND B2192 Seat Forward Switch Shorted to GND B2197 Seat Reverse Switch Shorted to GND B2605 Seat Front Vertical Position Sensor Failure B2606 Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure B2607 Seat Horizontal Position Sensor Failure B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation B0605 Receiver Internal Memory Malfunction B2805 No Transmitters Programmed C2100 Left Front TPM Sensor Malfunction C2105 Right Front TPM Sensor Malfunction C2110 Right Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction C2115 Left Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction C2120 TPM System Malfunction (No Sensors Received) C2121 TPM System Programming Malfunction (No Sensors Programmed) U1000 Loss of Communication Undetermined U1016 Loss of Communication with PCM U1064 Loss of Communication with BCM U1096 Loss of Communication with IPC U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
#28
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Kaikki mahdollinen C5:sta (corvetteforum) 1/3
This thread is an evolution of a couple old threads, and topics that
come up over and over and over again. I’ve compiled most everything I know into this one thread. I’m always expanding and correcting this information; if anything is incorrect or missing, please post and point them out or PM me. I know I’m extremely fallible, yet humble, so feel free to shred this post to shreds, but do it constructively. As many of you have surely noticed, I’ve posted up lots of garbage in the past, but I’ve learned and will continue to learn. Because of the constant updates, posts down the road may get confusing, but just remember the information at the top is my latest and greatest. Enjoy! Common Problems Leaking Battery Many C5's came with AC Delco Freedom batteries that had a tendency to have it's case crack open near the battery posts. The leaking battery acid would drip down the side of the battery, down the funnel-like battery support, straight down onto the PCM and the wiring loom. It can also get onto the A/C lines. I believe they are the vacuum lines that control the movement of the interior vents, and usually the system will default to blowing out the defroster vent. Sometimes car crippling damage would occur, sometimes not. It worst it would mean replacing the battery, the PCM, the wiring harness, grinding the rust off the frame to repaint it, changing the A/C lines and possibly swapping out another computer as well. This mostly happened on early C5’s because later C5’s used a gel-type battery that cannot leak, but I believe the problem resurfaced on ’04 or ’05 models again. Check this out on any car you look at. Use a 8 mm wrench, preferably a ratcheting closed-end version, to removed the battery cables. You also remove a holding block on the front side of the battery. You will need a long extension to reach it. The battery basically lifts right out. Also remove the black plastic battery tray. Look beneath the tray for rust or white powder. Signs of both are evidence of battery acid damage. It would probably be best to move to the next Vette unless you don't mind possibly tackling this repair in the future. It's possible that the car will throw codes for no apparent reason. No matter what Vette you buy, just make sure you replace the battery with a gel-type battery, like the Optima Redtop, sold at CostCo for $100. Grounding Problems aka CRAZY electrical gremlins! Bill Curlee has a great thread on the problems that corroded ground connections can create, and how to clean out the grounds. The most problematic ground connections are behind the headlights on both sides. Check out Bill’s thread for detailed info: Go! Here’s where all the grounds are: Go! Water Intrusion Water leaks have several ways of getting in the car, and none of them AFAIK are very difficult to fix. Proper adjustments and maintenance will prevent most leaks. Bill Curlee’s thread abouting locating & cleaning the udders, and sealing the door hinges. Here’s a few TSB’s from the CorvetteActionCenter.com: 1997-1998: Service Bulletin: Waterleak Above Door Glass (Reseal Blowout Clip) 1997-2002: Service Bulletin: General Waterleak Guide 1997: Service Bulletin: Water Drips into Rear Compartment After Hatch/Glass Has Been Opened Seats Corvette seats are delicate. Sliding hard across the bolster can break it, causing it to flap side-to-side. The leather is cheap, and there's little protection for it. It will wear out and form cracks, which is normal…for cheap leather. The wire springs in the seat bottom, and the bars in the bolsters can also wear thru the foam and leather, but that can be fixed by placing layer of burlap between the springs and the foam. Check the black plastic surround on the bottom of the seat to make sure it fits snugly against the leather, and isn't cracked. Older style plastic surrounds had a tendency to separate from the seat, but could be pushed back in. The newer style plastic surrounds can be used as a direct replacement, but one of the plastic studs may need to be ground off, or a hole will need to get punched into the leather. The seats tend to rock back and forth by about a 1/4" during acceleration and braking. It can be fixed, but GM will not fix it. Some lucky owners can get the dealer to replace the frame under warranty. The seat backs swinging forward under braking is normal, and not considered a problem. Here are a couple fixes: Corvettemechanic.com --- must be a member Rocking Seat Fix Seat choice Get the sport seats. The sport seats have a hole under the headrest. Some people put racing harness belts thru those loops. The seat frames and foam in both seats are interchangeable. Harness belt holes can be installed using Ford harness cutouts. Ask the dealership for them, they should know what it is without a part #. The foam in a standard seat will need to be cut, and sewing will have to be done, but it’s an easy job. Headlight bezel plugs There are 1-1/2" plugs that are located on the headlight bezels that would fall off on the older Vette's. The new style plugs, have a twist-lock to prevent them from falling out, but also requires new bezels. Only the new bezels & plugs are available now, and they are compatible with older C5’s. Headlight gears The gears in the headlight motor are plastic, and wear out over time. Ice, heavy Euro or projector headlights and twilight sentinal will cause the gears to wear out quickly. Fortunately a few years ago, Rodney started selling replacement brass gears, check out his website. Corvette America and probably a few other vendors now sell their own copy of his brass gears. Here’s a thread that shows how to replace the gears. Roof noises If you buy a coupe with a removable roof, you can expect wind noise and some creaking. The wind noise will never totally go away, but if there's creaking, you can eliminate that by thinly applying dielectric silicone grease to the weather-stripping. It also prevents cracking, so do this to all weather-stripping, on any car. Hood rattles During cold weather the rubber hood stops can also rub and rattle against the hood. Adjust and lubricate the rubber stops so when you pull the corner of the hood up, it doesn’t pull up, but the hood still closes. Drivetrain rattling The valvetrain makes a significant amount of noise at idle. It may sound like sewing machine. Converting the valve rockers to true shaft-mounted adjustable roller rockers with may help eliminate the valvetrain noise if adjusted properly. Installing a big cam and stiffer valve springs will make the noise louder. On manual transmission cars (M6 or M12), the transmission sounds like it is rattling when leaving the line. It is normal. It is the clutch throwout bearing rattling around. Sometimes you'll hear a horrible rattle if you shut off the engine. If you press the clutch pedal in while shutting off the car, you won't hear it. Shaky breaking The front brake rotors warp easily under heavy braking…or at least that’s what uneducated drivers think. I tend to believe StopTech: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers...rotors_myth.htm I verified this by lightly grinding my rotors with steel wool. Garnet paper is recommended, but I haven’t tried it. If you insist the problem is warping, don’t turn the rotors since thinner rotors warp more easily. Resurfacing the rotors is only a temporary fix, one that is less effective each time your resurface the rotors due to the reduced thermal capacity of the rotors. Rotors are available for $25 at Napa and RockAuto. Scraped front ends and rocker panels Checking for scrapes is an easy way to tell if the car was treated well. It's almost impossible not to scrape the front end, but there are two metal crash bar loops that should prevent the bumper from scraping. The bumper itself should not have scrape marks on it. Check the underside of the tip of the bumper, and the bottom corners of the bumper. If the crash bar gets scraped enough, eventually it will wear down to the point where it needs to get replaced. It costs about $220 for the crash bar, nut-serts, bolts and insulators, and can be replaced in a couple of hours, just be sure to hook the hoses and electric connector back to the A.I.R. pump. Here’s a list of ALL the parts you’ll need to replace the impact bar and the side air deflectors: Part #------Qty---Description 10188023---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator) 10278679---001---Insulator (goes to bottom of radiator) 10278679---005---Nut 10400765---001---Plate (the actual impact bar, unpainted) 10419312---001---Panel (air deflector) 10419313---001---Panel (air deflector) 11515638---010---Nut-speci 11515757---010---Bolt-Metr 10281487---010---Nut Not all of these parts need to get replaced, and there will be a few leftovers, but it will get the job done.
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
#29
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2/3
The rocker panels tend to get scraped on lifts and big speed bumps.
A & A Corvettes invented two products to prevent damage from both kinds of scraping. They have wheels that attach to the crash bar, allowing the car to roll on driveways instead of wearing down the crash bar. It will still scrape the spoiler, but the spoiler is a cheap wear item that takes only 2 minutes to replace without a lift or jack. They also make two aluminum strips that attached the frame next to the rocker panels, and they take the scrapes themselves instead of the rockers panels. Neither of the devices are visible unless looking under the car, and they are discreet enough to possibly be missed anyway. If you see these devices installed, you can be pretty sure the owner took good care of the car. Without this extra protection, you can expect to replace the crash bar and repair the rockers several times over the life of the car. WARNING: It won’t stop all scraping damage, just reduce the possibility of it happening, and reduce the damage when it does happen. Low hanging headers will probably still scrape. Hood seal weather-strip The sides and back of the hood compartment have weather-strip installed from the factory. The front is left open. Many owners install weather-strip along this front edge. You may not even notice it since it looks identical to rest of the weather-stripping. This extra weather-strip helps keep the engine compartment clean, and may also help the air intake system work better. This is another sign that the owner took good care of the car. The engine compartment stays pretty clean, but this the "extra step". A/C System There are two kinds of climate controls. One is manual with knobs, and the other is a dual-zone electronic system. The dual-zone system did cost more, but is not as reliable as the manual system. A leaking battery can affect both systems. A strong system is when the vents cannot be switched. Over time, and especially in humid climates, the system can cause condensation to leak onto the passenger side carpet. There are three udders under the driver’s side cowl. There are slits on the bottom, much like real udders. Vigorously squeeze and massage the udders until the debris has fallen out. Stop laughing! If the vent settings cannot be changed, the vacuum line is probably loose, clogged or broken. Read more! Squeaky steering wheel When you turn the steering wheel, you may hear a squeak. It's just the plastic surfaces rubbing against each other. A shot of lubricant fixes this. Squeaky/chirping/grinding wheel bearings Drive slowly, better yet, coast along at low speeds with the windows open in a quiet location. Listen for a squeak from the wheels. Try turning in different directions. If you hear the rear wheels squeaking, you may have a worn wheel bearing. A replacement bearing costs $600 list, but you can usually find it for $400-450. I've heard that AutoZone has a better replacement for $126 by a company named Timken. The part is easy to replace if you can separate the ball joints. I had to buy a special Kent-Moore tool to do mine. This problem may persist safely for a few months, but eventually will become annoying. It seems to be a common problem, and more so for the rear wheel bearing. I've never heard of it happening twice to the same car, so if you fix it once, you're probably good for life. Several racers replace their wheel bearing every year. A broken emergency drum clip may cause a false diagnosis. Be careful when removing & replacing the rear rotors. Oil woes Many late 2000 thru 2001 Vette's burn a lot of oil when the engine is kept constantly over 4,000 rpm's. This is caused by ring flutter, which allows extra oil to seep past the oil control rings, but doesn't seem to cause any extra wear to the engine. Chevrolet has rebuilt and replaced engines for owners that complained about excessive oil consumption. Their policy is that while the engine isn't normally operated like that outside of racing, it is the owner's prerogative to drive around in second gear all the time if they want to. It is covered under the warranty. The PCV system also has a tendency to suck oil back into the intake at high rpm's. It doesn't seem to cause any problems, other than a slight mess inside the intake manifold. The newer style PCV system can be installed, but this requires removing all the components in the top of the engine valley. Usually only racer's bother with the hassle. Several generations of PCV systems have had the problem, and at this time, December 2004, the PCV system still sucks oil into the intake. The oil-sucking problem will cause carbon buildup in the cylinders. The dealership sells GM Top End Cleaner, and Napa sells SeaFoam. The Top End Cleaner is not available in some smog states like California. Run a tube from the bottle into the hole for the PCV system behind the throttle body on the passenger side. Start the car, then start slowly sucking the solution into the engine. Don’t go too fast or the engine could lockup. As soon as the solution is gone, stop the motor for >4 hours, but preferably 12 hours. Be aware that when the engine is restarted, there will be a LOT of smoke! The oil-sucking can be prevented by installing a catch can. AMW and Greddy make catch cans, but a homebuilt catch can may be built using a Campbell-Hausfield air tool oil separator from most tool stores, including AutoZone. The AMW and Greddy cans are ~$100, but look great. The CH can is $15-25 for all the parts, and you can see how much oil is in it. Overheating & burning smells Even though the engine can heat up to 220, even 240 degrees Fahrenheit, this is normal. The radiator will keep the engine cool enough unless the radiator is blocked. Reprogramming the PCM can allow the fans to turn on earlier. If the fans also cool an aftermarket oil cooler, make sure the oil occasionally gets to 220 degrees to allow condensation and fuel to evaporate away. Fan settings and oil thermostats are two different ways to do this. It's not uncommon for plastic bags to get sucked up under the front bumper, and cover the radiator, thus causing the car to truly overheat. If this happens, take a quick peek under the bumper, and remove anything under there. Sometimes bags get stuck to the exhaust pipes too, causing quite a stench as they burn away. Locked steering column All C5’s, particularly manual transmission C5’s, and early C6 steering columns have a tendency to lock and stay locked. Usually it can be unlocked once, but just once. Some owners claim that vigorously shaking the steering wheel can unlock the steering wheel. Dealer's are able to disable the locking mechanism with a modified locking plate. Currently this is the only real method to disable the locking mechanism. Basically the wheel will still try to lock, but there will be nothing for it to lock to. It’s like a door dead bolt with a slot cut into the door jamb. There is a $100 kit that disables the steering column lock, and can be installed easily, but enough car vibrations can cause the lock to fall into the locking plate, even while driving! GM has a part (#88952428 or 8895242 that has a harness wiring jumper and different lock plate. Not sure what the difference in the kits are. After reading a few posts, manual transmission C5’s & C6’s are still in danger, even if the lock is disabled. The lock can vibrate out over time and get trapped in the locking plate. Auto transmission cars that have undergone the recall and new auto’s will not have the locking plate at all, so they are safe. More information about COMPLETELY disabling the steering column lock will be forthcoming from other’s on the forum, and by my own personal project. Until then, here are a few links about the topic: Corvette Forum - Column Lock Harness K Installation Corvettemechanic - A4 non locking column plate --- must be a member Corvette Forum - Column-lock again even with CLB! Corvette Forum - Has anyone ELSE beat column lock? Faulty gas gauge If you have bad gas (phew!), the fuel sender can be affected by the high sulfur content in the fuel, and cause the gauge to read empty. They car will still operate normally, and the gas gauge will work again if you use better gas, and will usually start again when you restart the car. It's just better to use good gas. Some people have had luck with running fuel filter cleaners thru the gas tank. New fuel senders sometimes fixes this problem. This thread has a LOT of ideas about what could be causing the problems, how to avoid problems, and how to fix it. It also points out how the late C5 fuel tanks and crossover tube is different. Noisy fuel pump There are two fuel tanks, and two fuel pumps. One fuel pump continually pumps gas from the passenger side tank into the driver side tank, and is quiet. The main fuel pump is directly behind the drivers seat, and can be annoying loud, especially on early C5’s. It's normal, and not a sign of a failing fuel pump. Chevrolet does have a bulletin out instructing how to better insulate against the sound of the fuel pump. This is merely an annoyance. A newer, quieter pump can also be installed. Extremely high oil pressure reading The oil pressure sensor can fail, but it is still okay to drive. Turn the car off, but with the key in the "on" position and check the oil pressure gauge. It should read "0". If the oil pressure sensor is bad, it will show a positive reading. The oil pressure sender is located behind the intake manifold, and will require moving the intake manifold. The sender costs about $40 and part # 12573107 or 12562230. How-to
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
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Suspension squeaking
In cold weather you may hear the suspension creak when you go over speed bumps. To fix this, clean (optional) and lubricate the sway bar bushings. The adjustable metal sway bar end links on Hotchkis and T1 bars can also create loud clicking sounds. Most adjustable end links are quiet initially, but wear out and get noisy over time. Greasing and protecting the end links from dirt may prevent wear. Tough shifting The shifter in manually shifted Corvette's takes a strong arm to get it into gear. You really have to make sure that the shifter is fully in 1st and Reverse, or it will pop out of gear when you let the clutch out. This is not the fault of the car, but rather the fault of the driver. Manual transmissions -- Replacing the transmission fluid often helps shifting. Early transmissions have paper blocker ring that require Dexron III compatible (usually organic) fluid because some synthetics will destroy the paper blocker rings and subsequently the transmission. Later transmissions, and all rebuilt transmissions , have Kevlar/carbon fiber parts that allow the use of synthetic fluids. I believe the 98-00 transmissions have the paper blocker rings. The safe transmission fluids seem to be: GM Synchromesh PN #12345349, Honda ATF-Z1, Royal Purple Synchromax, Amsoil ATF, O’Reilly Dexron III ATF. The following transmission fluids may be unsafe for early transmissions: Redline D4 ATF, Mobil 1 ATF, Royal Purple Max ATF. Related threads: LS1.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them fail? LS1Tech.com - Ending the speculation: Blocker rings, who's had them fail? Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for a M6? If it is especially tough to shift into 2nd or 4th gear, it's possible that the synchro's are worn out or the forks are bent. Do NOT force it into gear. Abuse creates and aggravates this problem. You can still drive, even quite well, without synchro's....or a clutch for that matter if you know how to rev match. Some aftermarket shifters make it easier to make sure you're fully in gear, and prevent gear grinding, but they also vibrate, and require more effort to shift. The stock shifter has a tuned weight damper that changes the vibrations to a non-audible frequency. The shaking doesn’t annoy some people, and there are some fixes. Leaky butt The differential can leak from the side covers. The problem has to do with the design. The lip on the casing is not wide enough to create a proper seal with the cover. Resealing the covers can be successful, but many dealers do not use the correct sealant. Inside/outside tire spinning If one tire spins while turning, adjust the friction modifier ratio. Aftermarket gear fluid from Royal Purple, Amsoil and Redline do not require additional friction modifier. GM’s friction modifier is PN #12377916. Too much friction modifier and the inside tire will spin/skip/hop. Too little friction modifier and the outside tire will spin/skip/hop. -- Thanks Russ! Tire hop Tire hop during hard acceleration in cold weather is common, even if the same tires don’t hop in warmer weather. Tire rubber when viewed thru a microscope looks like a web. Normally parts of this web grabs onto objects on the ground and stretch until either the car moves forward, or the web breaks, resulting in tire spin. I believe in cold weather, the web is too stiff for either of these events to occur, so the tires hop. To find out more, read Racing & High Performance Tire: Using Tires to Tune for Grip and Balance. I haven’t read it, but if you do, please let me know if my guess is correct. I found a couple stories on Google about people curing wheel hop with stiffer bushings and/or (jounce) shocks. Interior rattles The visors may rattle when they are put up, but if you flip them down, the rattle goes away. Squeezing the mirror lid down seems to take care of it. Try glueing a piece of felt or velcro between the mirror and lid to see if that fixes it. Caravaggio also makes replacement leather visors, but they go for $400. The stereo is Bose, and to go along with the historically crappy build quality of Bose products, Bose has graced the Corvette with Bose emblems on the door speaker covers that rattle when you play music with bass. A Bose system doesn't exist that puts out good bass, but the system still manages to rattle the emblems when playing Country, Hip Hop, or Techno at moderate volumes. Check this problem by having a passenger and yourself putting a finger on the emblems with music playing. Glue the emblems down to fix it. If the roof isn't tightened down enough, it will rattle. There are some adjustment screws in the roof to make this adjustment. Belt Chirping During cold weather, the belt can chirp. Goodyear Gatorback belts from AutoZone don’t chirp. Sticky Hatch During cold weather, the hatch may pop up slowly, or not at all. Spray the latches with silicone grease until they come up properly. If the struts do not hold up the hatch, try lubing the strut bars. 1997: Service Bulletin: Hatch Will Not Pop Up When Activated in Cold Weather Rocker failure The needle bearings in the OEM rockers have been known to fail. Usually the problem is noticed with extra valvetrain noise and needle bearings stuck to a magnetic oil plug. Nasty Performance will rebuild OEM rockers with Harland Sharp bearings. This seems to be one of the better solutions since the stock rocker is very good at high rpms. Most aftermarket rockers are nose heavy and require grinding the heads and valve covers to fit. Currently Harland Sharp rockers are having problems with c-clip retainers falling off and causing problems on the way. I’ll be following this issue since I have a set of HS rockers on my shelf waiting for this issue to be resolved. Here are some links: LS1Tech - EMERGENCY!! ROCKERS! Help ASAP! LS1Tech - Harland Sharp Rocker Failure LS1Tech - Install or not install HS rockers? Other Information Active Stability Control This allows you to keep some control of the car even when you do really stupid stunts. It doesn't bend the laws of physics, but will keep the car pointed where you are steering; you may still slide off the road, but at least the car will be pointed in the direction you were steering! One of the sensors is located around the passenger seat, and needs to be considered when installing a racing bucket. If you move that sensor, Active Stability will not know how to balance the car, and can be very dangerous. Active Stability came out around '99. Jacking The C5 was the first car to use hydroformed frame rails. Hydroformed rails are quickly becoming a common platform for new cars, but not many shops are prepared to lift these vehicles. The C5 requires an adapter for regular jacks and lifts to fit the jacking points. Make your own adapters with a hockey puck (or two) with a 1 1/2" eye bolt screwed thru the center. Stick the eye bolt thru the slit in the jacking point, turn 90 degrees, place jack under adapter and jack away....if you can get the jack under the car. You may have to use ramps. The C5 is so low that most people make their own wooden ramps....rhino ramps are too steep. Key Fobs There are basically two different kinds of key fobs, and they are not compatible with each other. 97-00, but 00 does not have the Passive Lock feature 01-04 Spark plugs The OEM platinum plugs, along with other plugs have had problems with the pucks falling off. I have a picture of missing pucks in this thread. This thread outlines some of the problems with using platinum, and a recommendation for using silver tipped plugs. Basically, of all spark plug tips, platinum is the worst conductor, copper is good, iridium is even better and silver is the best. Don’t take my word for it, do a little research, starting with this review. As for longevity, platinum, iridium and silver do have an advantage over copper, but plugs foul up after ~10K negating any difference corrosion would cause, and no plug will run well after 100K miles. To make the spark plugs easier to change, get the Snap-On double-swivel sparkplug tool and remove the coil packs. Here’s all you need to know about sparkplug changes: Go! ________________________________________ _______________________ These problems, and many others, are addressed at the www.corvetteactioncenter.com in the Tech Center -> Knowledge Base. While these problems do sound numerous and severe, just remember that JD Power considers this a very reliable car. If you buy a Corvette, consider yourself fortunate that there are many resources available to help you locate and correct problems. Secrets of the C5 Copied from www.corvettemechanic.com Quote: ● The little yellow "helper light" on the bottom of the rear-view mirror that illuminates the shifter area. ● That you can put your key in the driver’s door and turn it twice towards the front to unlock the passenger door and a third time to pop the trunk.
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-99 C5, Silver Metallic OO OO 420RWHP/593Nm * West Coast Corvettes Finland * |
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