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#1
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Lisäjäähdytin vaihteistolle.
Lisäkenno tuli ostettua 4l60e:lle. Ajattelin kytkeä sarjaan alkuperäisen (syylarissa) kanssa, mutta eipä meinaakkaan löytyä minkäänlaisia nippoja syyläriin, johon saisi sitten teetettyä letkut. Tietääköhän kukaan millaiset kierteet on syylärinkupeessa, ne mihin tulee ne vaihteiston metalliputket?
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LS1 Vortech/Trans Am Jaguar XF 3.0D X260 Bandit 1200 S http://reka10.kuvat.fi/kuvat/ |
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#2
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Quote:
Tyhmä kysymys mutta tsekkailitko näitä ohjeistuksia ? Ilmeisesti joitain variaatioita esiintyy vm välillä. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...18-female.html |
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#3
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Tämmöisen seikkaperäisen selostuksen löysin SFVettemanin tekemänä osanumeroineen --- "Friscon Vetteman" ...
There are many ways to skin a cat or run lines for a transcooler but this is one way to do it. From the upper transmission line connection at the radiator to the transcooler: Earls 991947 6 AN male to 5/8_18 male adapter (for the radiator fitting) Aeroquip FCM 4042 6 AN 120 degree swivel hose end Aeroquip AQP braided stainless steel hose, cut to length Aeroquip FCM 4022 6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end Earls 982368 6 AN male to 1/2 NPT male (for the cooler fitting) From the transcooler to the transmission return line: Earls 982368 6 AN male to 1/2 NPT male adapter (for the cooler fitting) Aeroquip FCM 4022 6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end Aeroquip AQP braided stainless steel hose, cut to length Aeroquip FCM 4022 6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end Earls 991947 6 AN male to 5/8_18 male adapter GM# 442338 (can be ordered from any Chevy dealer) 5/8_18 female union (for the male fitting on the transmission line) A good transcooler to use is the B&M 70266 (8x11x1.5). The transcooler works best when mounted to the front of the AC condenser using the B&M 80278 mounting kit. All parts, except for the GM union, can be readily obtained from Summit. Braided stainless steel hose is usually sold in 3ft. increments. Most likely you will need more than 3ft. but less than 6ft. total, but always measure to be sure. Other items you will need: hacksaw, 1 inch wide (or so) masking tape, a bench vise (to hold the fitting while you push and twist the hose end on), some 30 weight oil (to lube the inside of the hose and the fittings to ease assembly) and two 11/16 open end wrenches (for the AN fittings). You will also need wrenches for the transmission line fittings but I cannot remember the size. When you cut braided hose, the steel braid tends to flare out so use 1 inch wide masking tape, wrapped once only around the hose in the area to be cut and cut through the tape. It is recommended to remove the tape from the hose after you cut it. If you do and you can keep the braid from flaring out and making it impossible to get the hose into the fitting then you are better than me and I will buy you a beer if we ever meet. I just leave the one layer of masking tape on the hose ends. Here is a link to Aeroquip assembly instructions for steel braided hose. You will need to scroll to near the bottom of the page: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/070.pdf To mount the cooler you will need to remove your air intake and the top cover over the radiator. At each end of the radiator near the hood hinges you will see two bolts that secure the top cover to the frame. Once the top cover is off the radiator shroud can be pushed out of the way or you can remove it entirely by removing the screws along the fascia underneath the car at the mouth of the radiator air intake. The AC condenser is hung off the radiator on hooks and can be lifted up and moved forward for room to push the four nylon mounting rods (from the mounting kit) through the fins on the AC condenser. It is easier to mount the cooler on the left (drivers side) of the condenser because you have a bit more room to work with during installation and you can better see where you need to push the mounting rods thru. One final note: Steel braided lines are very abrasive and need to covered to prevent them from wearing away at whatever they come in contact with |
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#4
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Quote:
Kiitos, tässäpä tulikin hyvä tieto pläjäys Heinolasta kotia kohden mennessä loggasin, ja huomasin ettei TCC aktivoidu, ainoastaan tunerssilla sai lukon päälle, toki melko pieni merkitys normiajossa oli sillä. Täytyy tutkia alkuunsa se katkaisija siellä jarrupolkimessa ja sen säätö. Samalla tutustuin siihen RTT säätöön, ja kyllähän se totteli läppäriä, Kun perässä tuli Juhatee ja pyyhki kirpeleviä silmiään, vahvan seoksen takia
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LS1 Vortech/Trans Am Jaguar XF 3.0D X260 Bandit 1200 S http://reka10.kuvat.fi/kuvat/ |
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#5
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Kennolle löytyi jonkilainen paikka, huommenna letkukauppaan.
Nyt kun tutkin alkuperäisiä jäähdyttimen putkia, niin panin merkille niiden koon, eli linjat ovat päältä 8mm. Eli tuskinpa tällä saadaan liian kylmäksi vaihteistoöljyä, vaikka kuinka haluttaisiin, öljyn virtaus lienee melko olematon kokoinaismäärään nähden? http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachment...r-animated.gif ![]()
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LS1 Vortech/Trans Am Jaguar XF 3.0D X260 Bandit 1200 S http://reka10.kuvat.fi/kuvat/ |
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#6
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Hytaflexiltä se nippa löytyi, otin vielä malliksi tuon metalliputken. Eli kierteet jäähdyttimessä ovat: UNF 1/2". ![]() Lämmöt pihatestissä 30/35 astetta, infralla mitattu. ![]()
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LS1 Vortech/Trans Am Jaguar XF 3.0D X260 Bandit 1200 S http://reka10.kuvat.fi/kuvat/ |
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